Florida Discount Air Conditioning HVAC Repair - AC Locators
During this Spring and Summer season, AC Locators helped a countless number of homeowners save an average of almost a thousand dollars when replacing their HVAC systems. Now that Autumn is upon us and inventory is depleting, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find ways to continue to save homeowners $500 to $1000 or more on their air conditioning repair costs. That's why AC Locators is making one final offer of $500 or more off all system replacements while supplies last.
Us the following Online Coupon to save at least $500 when replacing your furnace or air conditioning system, or call us for details at (954) 464-6294.
Published May 15th, 2006 As afternoon temperatures steadily rise into the unbearable range, many homeowners are facing a harsh reality.
Their air conditioners are exceeding their service-life and failing. Many fill themselves with the false hope that their system may only need freon - as though freon is a consumable like gas in a car. The ugly truth is, freon never leaves the system - and only escapes when a leak has formed, which is very seldom. .
An even uglier thruth is the fact that air conditioning and HVAC repair prices increased approximately 50% on January 1st of this year, when our government imposed more stringent regulations on the HVAC industry. SEER 13 is now the lowest legal efficiency level service companies are allowed to install.
But there's still a little hope out there. Licensed HVAC contractors are allowed to install the previous, less expensive units as long as they're available. One of the ways AC Locators saves its customers money is by finding SEER 10 units which saves their customers $500 to $1,000 or more.
Another way AC Locators saves their customers a great deal of money is by only advertising Online. Online advertising adds only pennies to the cost of each sale. Other companies spend hundreds of thousands of dollars each year advertising on television, in the newspaper, over the radio and through the mail. In order to recoupe their advertising investment, they have to add up to $1,000 to each sale they make.
AC Locators also saves their customers a good deal of money by making many of their sales over the phone. Most companies send a high pressure "closer" on every sales call to intimidate customers into signing a big contract that has a huge commission built into it. If the customer feels the price is too high, they have to pay for an expensive service call.
AC Locators knows that systems are warranted for five years and usually last a few years past that. If a customer calls with a broken system that's over ten or fifteen years old, they're treated faily over the phone and quoted a nice low price. They make many more sales this way, they pass the savings along to their customers, the charge less for their services and in turn - make more sales than anyone else in the industry.
AC Locators are located in Buford near the Mall of Georgia and in Sugar Hill.
Published April 2, 2006
Air conditioning HVAC repair costing consumers up to 50% more due to new gov. regulations
ATLANTA - As afternoon temperatures recently rose above the comfort level - area homeowners tried turning on their air conditioning for the first time this year.
Most functioned normally, but for some it meant making a call to their local air conditioning and HVAC repair companies. When they did so - many were shocked to learn about the dramatic increase in repair costs. After January, manufacturers were required to produce units with a minimum of SEER 13 efficiency level.
Spring is a time of renewal, including renewed interest in our homes and yards. It is a time to assess what is usually our single biggest investment — our home — to see if it needs cleaning, repair, maintenance or maybe remodeling or redecorating.
For the next four weeks, the Home & Garden section will examine many facets of the home and yard. We begin with a glossary of terms that are commonly used – but not necessarily understood — in the home business.
Knowing these words and why they are important will empower you in caring for your home, whether you tackle jobs yourself or hire things done.
Bearing wall: A wall that supports any vertical load in addition to its own weight. If you’re remodeling and want to “open up” your floor plan, you can’t remove a bearing wall unless you make other arrangements.
Circuit: The path of electric current as it travels from the source to the appliance or fixture and back to the source.
Drywall: Panels consisting of a layer of gypsum plaster covered on both sides with paper, used for finishing interior walls and ceilings. Also called wallboard, gypsum wallboard and Sheetrock, a trade name.
Fascia: The flat, long piece of wood that hangs directly below the edge of your roof and prevents the rainwater from blowing back into your house’s windows.
GFCI: An acronym for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, a small inexpensive device developed to prevent electrical shocks. These devices need to be tripped and reset every month.
New homes are built with GFCIs, and the National Electrical Safety Foundation urges people with older homes to have a qualified electrician install GFCIs in outlets that are outdoors, or in bathrooms, kitchens or other locations where products may come in contact with water.
Header: The beam perpendicular to joists, or the beams that support floors and ceilings. Headers are nailed to joists to make frames for a chimney, stairway, window, door or other opening.
HEPA: An acronym for High Efficiency Particulate Absorbing. A HEPA filter can (theoretically) remove from the air at least 99.97 percent of dust, pollen, mold, bacteria and any airborne particles with a size of 0.3 micrometres. Some vacuum cleaners tout HEPA filters.
The original HEPA filter was designed in the 1940s for the Manhattan Project to prevent the spread of airborne radioactive contaminants. It was commercialized in the 1950s and the original term became both a registered trademark and a generic term for highly efficient filters.
Joists: Beams that support floors and ceilings. They are supported at the ends by walls, girders or larger beams.
MDF: An acronym for Medium-Density Fiberboard, an engineered wood product formed by breaking wood into fibers, combining them with wax and resin, and forming panels by applying high temperature and pressure. Much of the wood trim and even doors inside today’s new homes are made of MDF because it can be routed easily to look like carved wood. It has to be painted, though.
Large-scale production of MDF began in the 1980s. One contentious issue is the use of formaldehyde resins and the associated health risks. Thus, other resins are being introduced.
OSB: An acronym for Oriented Strand Board, an engineered wood product formed by layering strands (flakes) of wood in specific orientations. The wood has a rough and variegated surface with the individual strips lying unevenly across each other in the direction of their grain.
The finished product has similar properties to plywood, but is uniform and cheaper. It has begun to replace natural plywood in many environments. The most common uses are as sheathing in walls, floors, and roofs.
There is some debate over the environmental impact of OSB. On the one hand, it allows producers to use tree species that are otherwise unfit for standard veneer plywood or lumber, such as aspen or poplar. The production method uses almost all the wood of the harvested trees and both small, young trees and lower-quality, fast-growing species can be used. However, the manufacturing process requires the use of a variety of deadly volatile compounds including formaldehyde.
PVC: An acronym for Poly Vinyl Chloride, a plastic resin used to make all kinds of products common in construction, from pipes for water, sewer and venting to house siding. As siding, it is low-maintenance, less expensive than its rivals, resistant to fading, and is available in a wide range of colors.
But PVC can cause a rare form of liver cancer in humans, and although vinyl may be safe while it is on your home, some scientists believe that its manufacture and disposal is hazardous to our health and the environment because of toxic chemicals that are released.
P-trap: In plumbing, this is the P-shaped curl in the drain below the sink (and other fixtures) that acts as a water door, preventing sewer gasses from escaping into your home. A no-odor device, if you will. The curved portion holds water and traps sewer gas. Water and waste travel downward through the P-trap with no problem, while sewer gasses stay where they belong — in the sewer — below the P-trap.
The P-trap also can be a valuables-saving device. The same loop that holds back sewer gasses could save the ring you dropped down the drain as well. Unfortunately, the P-trap can also hold hair and soap scum and cause the drain to clog at the curve.
Now, according to a recent article by James and Morris Carey, someone has come up with something better —the T-trap. It is shaped like a T and where an upscale P-trap will have an access hole for cleaning, the T-trap will have an access hole and a removable (and replaceable) filter.
Nothing can get past this improved trap. Jewelry, money, and other valuables can’t be lost. The filter is intended to trap hair and soap scum as well, reducing clogs down the line that could be very difficult to clean and clear. With the T-trap, you open the trap, pull out the filter and anything that might be stuck in it.
R value: A measure of the capacity of a material, such as insulation, to impede heat flow, with increasing values indicating a greater capacity. The higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness.
For the Midwest, the Department of Energy recommends that new homes have a minimum value of R-38 value in the attic and R-15 in the sidewalls.
Determining existing R-value is based on the type of insulation material and its thickness. For example, the most common attic insulation in homes is fiberglass blankets or batts that are about 16 to 17 inches thick. The fiberglass has an R-value per inch of 3.2; the result is an insulation layer with an R-value of between 51 and 54.
Riser: Each of the vertical boards between the treads (horizontal surfaces) of a stairway.
Sash: The framework that holds glass in a window or door.
SEER: An acronym for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, which is used in rating the efficiency of air-conditioners. It basically compares the amount of cooling produced to the amount of electricity used. A higher SEER is better because you get more cooling using less electricity, like the miles per gallon rating in a car.
After January, manufacturers were required to produce units with a minimum of SEER 13, but they can go up to 27.
Sheathing: Sheet material or boards fastened to the rafters or exterior stud walls, to which the roofing or siding is applied.
Shutoff valve: In plumbing, a fitting to shut off the water supply to a single fixture or branch of pipe. Every homeowner should know the location of their home’s main water shut-off valve and how to use it. This is important because if there is a break in the line, or if your toilet is overflowing, you’ll want to shut off the water.
Some people turn off their water and drain their pipes when they leave home for the winter. That’s because if there is an extended power outage and their home gets cold, pipes could freeze and burst.
In addition to the main line, there are individual shut-off valves next to toilets, sinks and the clothes washer.
Soffit: The horizontal underside of an eave.
Subfloor: Plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) attached to the joists. The finish floor is laid over the subfloor.
Sump pump: A sump is a pit for collecting water that drains from around your home when the ground is saturated. This prevents pressure from building up around and under your foundation.
When the sump fills up, a float on the pump activates the pump, moving water out of your home and onto your yard.
If your home has a sump pump, it is good to know where it is and to check it manually every now and then to make sure it works.
If you’re concerned about having the pump work even when there’s no power to your home — when an electrical storm knocks it out, for example — you might want to purchase a battery backup for $150 to $200.
Stud: A vertical part of your home’s frame. When mounting heavy artwork, mirrors and shelving, be sure to secure it to a wall stud to prevent damage. Locate a stud using a stud finder (available at hardware stores or home centers) or by tapping along the wall with a hammer.
Another trick is to locate an electrical outlet because electrical boxes are nailed into studs. You will find a stud on either side of the outlet and every 16 inches down the line. (Note: this might not be true if someone added an electrical box after the house was built.)
Vapor barrier: Any material used to prevent the penetration of water vapor into walls or other enclosed parts of a building. Polyethylene sheets, aluminum foil and building paper are the materials used most often.
Frost line: Depth to which the ground generally freezes. The footings for a home – the lowest part of the foundation that supports the house – must be below the frost line so that they will not be raised by freezing.